Friday, October 28, 2016

How to use quilting stitches to showcase your patchwork


Thanks for joining me this week as I sewed with PFAFF's Performance 5.2 to make a quilted table runner - just in time for Thanksgiving! In yesterday's post we finished constructing the knife quilt block and assembled the runner for quilting. Today I'm adding quilting stitches to highlight the fun patchwork utensil quilt blocks.


Quilted table runner

To quilt with the PFAFF Performance 5.2 we'll keep it set up with the straight stitch needle plate and the quilting foot. I also started the quilting with the same white thread that I used for piecing.


Performance 5.2

The bold fabrics and larger than life cutlery give this runner an informal, contemporary look. To keep the theme going I chose to quilt the runner with straight lines. At first I was going to simply quilt straight lines ½" apart across the entire runner, but then I started to think about using the quilting to emphasize the utensils and platter. Quilting ¼" away from a patchwork feature raises the patchwork which helps to emphasize it visually. 


Quilting the middle of the runner

I started quilting ¼" away from the platter's inner blue frame. Using the ¼" quilting foot I could easily go all the way around the churn dash frame. The red ¼" markings on the foot helped me to stop accurately at the corners. Quilting with the needle down I can stop stitching and the presser foot lifts just enough off of the fabric so that I can pivot the runner under the needle. This way I can keep my hands on the runner and my mind on the quilting as I make my way around the middle block.


Quilting foot

Using guide lines to turn corner

When I finished going around the platter I thought about what to quilt inside of it. I think that when the runner is in use this section will be covered so I decided to have some fun and be creative with the quilting. I'm still pretty unsure of my free motion quilting skills, but I wanted to try making a flower pattern like in the background fabric. I did it first using the white thread. It turned out pretty cute, but hard to see! 

I switched to a grey thread that blends into the background fabric. I decided that I would go over the flower design with the gray thread and really liked how it turned out. You can see the quilting better on some of the photos near the end of the post ;)

I continued quilting with the gray thread ¼" away from each utensil. I went around each one twice using the red markings on the quilting foot to guide me once again around the corners.

Then I quilted in the ditch - right on the seam - of the blocks in each utensil. The LED lights and the quilting foot make it easy to sew in the ditch with the PFAFF Performance 5.2.


Quilting in the ditch around Shoo Fly

Ready for binding


Once all the quilting was complete I trimmed the batting and backing even with the top of the runner. Then I prepared my binding strip and sewed it to the back of the runner. I share a few more details of how I add binding in this post

With the binding sewn to the back it's time to get the machine ready to sew the binding to the front of the runner. For this we'll use a decorative stitch that requires changing to the standard needle plate. This's easy to do on the Performance 5.2 as the needle plate will pop out with a little nudge from the mini screw driver included with the machine. Now's a good time to clean out the bobbin area too!


Needle plate removed

It's also a good time to make sure you have a full bobbin of thread for binding. I used the same color thread as for top stitching - gray - but you might want a color that will blend in and disappear on your backing fabric. If you'd like, you can read all the way to the end and see the results of my binding stitches before you decide;)


Bobbin winding popup

The stitch I chose for adding the binding to the front of the machine is stitch 2.2.2 on the Performance 5.2. It's categorized as an antique quilt stitch. One of the reasons I chose it is because the middle of the stitch can line up right on the edge of the binding and still have some of the stitch go onto the background of the runner.

It's important to pick a decorative stitch that will do a good job of securing the binding to the runner because you'll probably need to launder it more than once.


Stitch 2.2.2

The Color Touch Screen gives lots of details about setting up your machine for successful stitching. One detail is which presser foot to use, in this case, presser foot 1A. You can see by the space at the back of the foot that it will engage with the IDT System to help ensure even feed of the layers - another important feature when adding binding by machine.


Presser foot 1A

I lined up the middle red "tick" on the presser foot with the edge of the binding to sew it down securely all the way around the runner.


Attaching the binding with presser foot 1A.

The wide harp space of the Performance 5.2 makes it easy to keep the runner out of the way while stitching. This photo gives you a better look at the flower pattern in the middle of the runner:)


Attaching binding by machine.

In no time I finished the binding - this felt like the easiest part of the process! 


Reverse side of quilted table runner.

The reverse side of the quilted table runner makes its own modern statement with the quilting visible and adding some eye candy for table guests. In this photo you can see the double outline of the utensils created by quilting twice around each of them and how the in the ditch quilting defines the traditional blocks inside of them.

You can also see how using the decorative stitch has added another visual element to the reverse side of the runner. This element could have been hidden by using a bobbin thread that blended with the backing fabric or by choosing a different stitch, one that didn't extend into the background.


PFAFF Performance 5.2

I'm very thankful that I had the opportunity to try out the new PFAFF Performance 5.2. 


Quilted table runner

Thanks for quilting along with me! I hope you enjoy entertaining and eating around your quilted table runner.


Thursday, October 27, 2016

No waste fast flying geese quilt block method


This week we've been using the Performance 5.2 to create a quilted table runner in time for Thanksgiving. In yesterday's post we pieced the top blocks for a fork and spoon using the Shoo Fly and Star quilt blocks. Today we'll add a knife to our utensil set and assemble the table runner top.


Quilted table runner

Once again we'll rely on the precise piecing features of PFAFF's Performance 5.2 to help us get some pretty tiny points perfect on the flying geese inside the knife block.


PFAFF Performance 5.2

Knife Section


Knife section

To make two knife sections units you will need:

from background fabric
2 strips - 2½" x 6½"
2 - 3" squares
2 - 2" squares

from utensil fabric
2 - 3" squares
2 - 2" squares
2 - 1½" squares
8 - 1⅞" squares

from geese fabric
2 - 3¼" squares

I'm going to use the no-waste, fast flying geese method for these blocks. I always get confused when picking out my fabric which one is the geese and which the background; the geese are the big triangle in the middle of the block, so in this case, the 3¼" squares. 


Fabric for one set of flying geese blocks

1. Make Fast Flying Geese


I like to use this no waste method of creating Flying Geese blocks when I have several I need for one block. These geese will finish quite tiny at 1½" x 2½" so every step is important. Cut your pieces as precisely as possible and trust the features of the Performance 5.2 to deliver precise piecing. Let's get started!

You'll need 1 - 3¼" geese fabric square and 4 - 1⅞" utensil fabric squares to make one set of four geese. We'll be making two sets in total;)

On the back of each utensil fabric square, draw one diagonal line.
Place two of the squares, right side down, in opposite corners of a right side up geese fabric square – the drawn diagonal lines should go from top left to bottom right corner – the squares WILL overlap in the middle.


Utensil fabric squares on top of geese fabric square.

Sew ¼" away on each side of the drawn line - this is where the needle down feature, the straight stitch needle plate and IDT System help you make precise geese.


IDT System engaged

Cut on the drawn line and press the seams to the utensil fabric triangles.

On one new unit, right side up, place an utensil fabric square right side down lined up with the bottom right corner of the geese side of the unit with the diagonal line going to the corner – the corner of the square will sit between the two triangle pieces.


Utensil fabric square on new geese unit.

Sew ¼" away from each side of the drawn line.
Cut on the line and press the seam to the just added utensil fabric triangle.

Trim the unit to 1½" x 2½" – START TRIMMING at the open geese end of the unit (not the triangle tip!)


Trimming geese unit

Repeat adding the remaining utensil fabric square to the second unit to create a total of 4 – 1½" x 2½" Flying Geese units.

Make a second set of fast flying geese using the second 3¼" geese fabric square and the remaining 4 - 1⅞" utensil fabric squares.


2. Make HST units


Fabrics for HST units

For the knife section there're two different size HST units to make.

Use the 3" background square and 3" utensil fabric square to make 2 - 2½" HSTs.
Use the 2" background square and 2" utensil fabric square to make 2 - 1½" HSTs.

Draw a diagonal line on the back of each background square.
Pair with same size utensil fabric square, right sides together.
Sew ¼" away from each side of the drawn lines.
Cut on the lines and press the seams to the background fabric.
Trim each set to the correct sizes.


3. Assemble the knife sections


Knife pieces laid out for assembly.

Use the photo and layout the section pieces for assembly.

Sew the 2½" HST to the first geese unit, and the middle two geese units together.
Sew the 1½" HST to the 1½" utensil square; press the seam to the square.
Sew the top unit of HST and geese to the middle geese unit. Add the bottom HST and square unit.

This section needs to measure 6½" in height. I pressed the top HST seam to the first geese unit, then pressed the remaining geese unit seams to the bottom. The final seam between the HST and square unit and the last geese unit I pressed open.

If this fancy pressing still doesn't get your height to 6½", then trim from the bottom HST and square unit to get the correct length. One of my sections I needed to trim, the other I didn't.

Repeat steps to make a second knife geese section.


Background piece and knife unit

Join a background strip to the left side of each section, pressing the seams to the background strips.

The completed knife sections should each measure 4½" x 6½".


Assemble the Utensil Units


Sew the fork section to the knife section with the knife section on the right; press the seam to the background.
Sew the spoon to the right of the fork/knife unit: press the seam to the background.


Utensil block units

Sew the Utensil top unit to a handle unit, pinning if necessary to make sure the handles line up at the base of the utensils where the two sections meet.
Press the seam to the handle unit.

Repeat with the second group of utensil sections to make a second utensil block.

The utensil blocks should each measure 15½" x 12½".


Assemble the Runner


Sew a utensil block to each long edge of the platter section along the utensil top edge. Press the seam to the platter block.

The runner will measure 15½" x 36½".


Runner layered and pinned for quilting.

Layer the runner top right side up, batting and backing right side down. Pin to secure layers together for quilting.


Performance 5.2

The PFAFF Performance 5.2 showed off its precision piecing features while assembling the quilted table runner. The knife section has perfect little Flying Geese units and the runner is ready to be quilted. I can't wait to show you the quilting in the next post!


QUILTsocial Giveaway 127: Fat Quarters and Color Tone Guide


Enter now for your chance to win!

100% cotton and machine-washable, these 18 x 21-inch cotton fat quarters feature bright colors in a rainbow of colors. They will add color and life to all your sewing projects. They can be used in the main design theme, or coordinate them with other fabrics to enhance your project's visual appeal.

The color tone guide is a tool based on the color wheel. Its design helps to understand the relationship between colors, thereby giving more confidence when choosing colors for quilting projects. The Tonal Estimator / Value Filter allows you to sort fabrics by a range of values creating visual contrast and sharp, clear design.

The contest ends at 5:00PM on Sunday November 6th. Get your entries in NOW!

Congratulations to Claudia W, winner of QUILTsocial Giveaway 123 -  Northcott Euphoria Fabric Bundle!


Fat Quarters and Color Tone Guide

How to Enter the QUILTsocial Giveaway Contest

To enter this contest, log in below through Facebook or with your email, then follow the instructions. You’ll have the opportunity to get multiple entries and multiply your chances of winning! We also encourage you to explore the awesome content on our blog.



How to make precise points on your shoo fly and star quilt blocks


Welcome! Today we're going to do some more piecing using the PFAFF Performance 5.2. In yesterday's post we talked about 5 time saving sewing features on the PFAFF Performance 5.2 and we made the utensil handle blocks and the churn dash platter block for the middle of the quilted table runner.

Today we make the tops of the fork and spoon!


Performance 5.2

The star fork


Fork block

The fabric requirements listed will make the two sections needed for the runner.

from the background fabric you'll need
2 strips - 1½" x 6½"
2 - 3" square

from the utensil fabric you'll need
2 - 3" squares
8 - 2" squares
8 - 1½" squares

from star fabric
2 - 2½" squares
8 - 2" squares


1. Make top of fork units


The top of the fork is made up of HST units using the 3" squares.

Draw a diagonal line on the back of the 3" background squares.
Pair with the 3" utensil squares right sides together and sew ¼" away from each side of the drawn line.

Using the ¼" quilting foot included with the Performance 5.2 lets me quickly and accurately sew these pieces together.


¼"quilting foot

Cut on the line and press the seam in opposite directions - to the utensil fabric on one square and to the background fabric on the other.
Trim the squares to 2½".

Sew two of the squares with seams pressed in opposite directions together along a background fabric edge to create the top piece of the fork. See the photo for correct orientation. Press the seam open.

Repeat to make a second fork top.


Two top of fork units with seams pressed open.

2. Make the star points


The star points are made with HST units too, this time using the 2" squares.

Draw a diagonal line on the back of the 2" star fabric squares.
Pair with the 2" utensil squares right sides together and sew ¼" away from each side of the drawn line.

Cut on the line and press the seam in opposite directions - to the utensil fabric on one square and to the star fabric on the other.

Trim the squares to 1½".


Seams pressed in alternate directions

Sew two of the squares with seams pressed in opposite directions together along an utensil fabric edge to create the star points. See the photo for correct orientation. Press the seam open. You'll have a total of 8 pairs of star points.


Star block layout

The straight stitch needle plate included with the Performance 5.2 makes it easy to sew small pieces under the needle without getting caught and pulled out of shape. Working with the IDT System I know I'll have secure, even stitches on these small seams which is important so my project can be washed and I won't have to worry about it coming undone.


Straight stitch needle plate

3. Assemble the star


Star sewn into rows.

Use the photo for layout guidance.
Sew the star together in rows. Press the seams to the squares each time.
Sew the rows together, pressing the seams to the middle.


Sewing star rows together

I like to use the needle down function when sewing similar units. The needle can act like a third hand to help me keep pieces lined up and humming through the machine. Combined with the LED lights it makes sewing small pieces more enjoyable at the machine at night.

Repeat to make two star blocks.
The stars should each measure 4½" square.


4. Assemble the fork sections


Top fork section and star section

Precise piecing with the Performance 5.2 means I didn't lose my star points! Let's celebrate this a bit before we move on because I was surprised and really happy when I pressed my star open and saw all the points! I know I shouldn't haven't been surprised, but I was :) It made me so happy to see that all of my work to this point resulted in such a pretty star.

Okay. Let's continue!

Sew one star block to the bottom edge of the fork top section. Press the seam to the fork top.
Sew a background strip to the left side of the fork to complete the section. Press the seam to the background strip.
Repeat to make a second fork section.
Each fork section should measure 5½" wide by 6½" tall.


The Shoo Fly Spoons


Shoofly spoon section

You'll need the following pieces to make two spoon sections.

from the background
2 strips - 2½" x 6½"
2 strips - 1½" x 6½"
2 strips - 1½" x 3½"
4 - 2" squares

from the utensil fabric
8 - 2" squares
6 - 1½" squares

from the shoo fly fabric
4 - 2" squares
2 - 1½" squares


1. Make HST units


There are two different sets of half square triangle units - one set for the shoo fly and utensil fabrics, and one for the utensil and background fabrics.

Draw a diagonal line on the back of the 4 - 2" background squares and the 4 - 2" shoo fly squares.

Make four sets of background and utensil fabric squares right sides together and four sets of the shoo fly and utensil fabric squares with right sides together.

Sew ¼" away from each side of the drawn lines on all 8 sets.

Cut on the lines and press the seams to the darker fabric.

Trim each set to 1½" square.


2. Assemble the Shoo Fly spoon


Layout of spoon pieces

Using the photo as a guide, layout the 5 rows of squares needed to make one spoon section.

Repeat the layout a second time to sew the second spoon section at the same time.


Two spoon sections laid out

It was at this point that I realized I could use the built in Patchwork program to sew this block together. I've used it before when piecing squares of the same size but not for sewing together different types of pieces (HSTs and squares.) 

I have to admit the piecing did go quicker, and smoother, as I could focus on the pieces going through and leave the moving of the needle to the machine.


Patchwork program engaged

Sew the pieces into rows, pressing the seams of each row in alternate directions: press the first row to the left, the second to the right, and so on.


Spoon rows

Sew the rows together pressing the seams away from the rows with HSTs (top seam up, next down, next up, last down). The spoon section should measure 3½" wide x 5½" tall at this point.


3. Add the background 


Spoon with background pieces

To complete the section, sew the 1½" x 3½" background strip to the top of the spoon. Press the seam to the strip.
Sew the 1½" x 6½" background strip to the right side of the spoon and press the seam to the strip.
Sew the 2½" x 6½" background strip to the left side of the spoon and press the seam to the strip.

The spoon section should measure 6½" square.

Add the background strips to the second spoon to complete the second spoon section.


Spoon block

Fork block, Performance 5.2, and spoon block

Today's pieced fork and spoon blocks have precise points thanks to the features on the Performance 5.2. I'm delighted with the progress of the quilted table runner so far. 


Tuesday, October 25, 2016

5 time saving sewing features on the PFAFF Performance 5.2


Try saying THAT five times fast! In yesterday's post PFAFF Performance 5.2 makes quick work of piecing a table runner in which we picked out fabrics and started cutting to make the quilted table runner. In today's post we'll start sewing parts of the runner together while I point out some of the features the Performance 5.2 has that makes this an enjoyable experience for me, even when the only time I have to quilt is after dinner.


PFAFF Performance 5.2

Utensil handle units


Quilted table runner

Today's sewing starts with making some strip units for the utensil handles.
You'll need the following pieces from your background fabric:

1 strip – 3" x 14"
1 strip – 5" x 14"
1 strip – 3½" x 14"
1 strip – 2½" x 14"

From the utensil fabric you'll need the 3 – 1½" x 14" strips.


Sew together the 3” background strip with one utensil fabric strip; press the seam to the utensil fabric strip.


First unit of handle section

Time saving feature 1: IDT System


IDT system engaged

It's easy to sew the strips precisely thanks to the Integrated Dual Feed System, or IDT System for short. This feature, combined with using the needle down feature, saves me time because I don't have to pin my pieces together to ensure they'll match up.

Add the 5” background strip to the utensil fabric and press the seam to the new background strip.


Time saving feature 2: LED lights


LED lights on Performance 5.2

The bright LED lights mean I can sew accurately even after supper during the week. Being able to sew a few stitches each night saves my daylight quilting time for things like cutting and selecting fabrics for another project ;)

The next strip unit is made up of four strips.


Start with two utensil strips and sew one to each side of the 3½” background strip.To keep your strip unit from going wonky, sew with the first utensil fabric on the bottom and the second one on the top. Alternating which end you start sewing from will also help decrease distortion.

Press both seams of utensil strips.


Time saving feature 3: Speed!


Speed control button and popup

The PFAFF Performance 5.2 is speedy quick, but you still have control :) The speed can be adjusted with the icon located on the front. Use the Color Touch screen and the stylus to adjust the speed quickly and easily. I always forget how much quicker I can sew with this machine until I sit down to do it. Then I realize how precise my stitches remain even with the speed and I try to get even more quilting in before bedtime!

Next add the 2½" background strip to the second utensil strip; press the seam to the background. Your strip should measure 7½" wide – see photo.


Second unit of handle section.

Sew the first unit along the edge of the 5" wide background strip to the edge of the 1½” utensil strip of the second unit; press the seam to the background.


Time saving feature 4: Wide harp space


Harp space of Performance 5.2

The wide harp space makes it easy to sew large units together without pinning - another time saving feature for late night sewing! Less tugging and pulling at the machine makes it easier on the body too, especially a tired one. I like to use it to set out piecing units too!

Cut strip into two units, each 6½" high.


Cut into two handle sections.

Time saving feature 5: Precision equals more Production


Performance 5.2

All of the time saving features already mentioned work together to make sewing with the Performance 5.2 easy on the mind and body. This enjoyment leads to the desire to sew even more - so let's keep going!


Make the Churn Dash Platter Block


The middle of the quilted table runner features a large open churn dash - a platter, if you will. This section will most likely be covered with other table decor or, at meal time, the actual platter of food! 


Churn Dash Platter Block

You'll need the following already cut background pieces:

2 – 3" squares
2 strips – 1½" x 15½"
2 strips – 1½" x 10½"

From the platter fabric cut

1 – 6½" x 9½" rectangle
2 strips – 1½" x 9½"
2 strips – 1½" x 6½"

From the platter churn dash frame fabric cut

2 – 3" squares
2 strips – 1½" x 9½"
2 strips – 1½" x 6½"


Make hsts


Draw a diagonal line on the back of the 3" background squares.
Pair with the 3" churn dash frame squares right sides together and sew ¼" away from each side of the drawn line. 

Cut on the line and press the seam to the darker fabric.
Trim each to 2½" square.


Platter block strips sets laid out.

Sew strip sets


Sew one platter 1½" x 6½"strip to one churn dash 1½" x 6½" strip. Press the seam to the churn dash fabric. Repeat to make a second set.


Sew one platter 1½" x 9½" strip to one churn dash 1½" x 9½" strip. Press the seam to the churn dash fabric. Repeat to make a second set.


Full platter block layout

Sew into rows


Layout the platter block units as shown. Sew the platter into rows. Press the top and bottom row seams to the strip units and the middle row seams to the rectangle.
Sew the rows together, pressing the seams to the middle row.


Sew background borders to platter block.

Attach borders


Sew one background 1½" x 10½" strip to each end of the platter. Press the seams to the background strips.

To complete the platter block, sew one background 1½" x 15½" strip to the top and one to the bottom of the block; press both seams to the background strips.

The platter block should measure 12½ x 15½".


Handle units, Performance 5.2, and platter block

Thanks to the time saving sewing features of thePFAFF Performance 5.2 we were able to make the handle units and complete the platter block all in one night! Stay tuned for some more piecing fun tomorrow.