Highlights of the Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 50 sewing machine

Hello everyone and welcome back to another exciting week at QUILTsocial. This week, I'm taking the Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 50 sewing machine for a test run. I'll be looking at some of the features of the sewing machine. I'll also be passing along some cool sewing tips and there's a neat project as well.

Make sure to check back each day this week as we learn about the Designer Topaz 50. Even if you don't have this sewing machine or currently not in the market for a sewing machine, there'll be loads of tips and crazy moments to keep you entertained.

Let's get started.

Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 50

It's always exciting to open the box and see what the sewing machine looks like. There's the usual accessory box attached to the body of the sewing machine. My first step is to remove the accessory box and slide on that amazing extension table.

I was sewing borders on a quilt the other morning and today I was sewing some strip sets. Everything just glides over the smooth surface of the extension table. No hard edge as on other versions of the extension table for things to get caught. Imagine how easy it would be to quilt projects with this table? Yes, I've quilted up some projects with the Designer Topaz 50 and it was a dream to maneuver it on the sewing machine.

Not only because of the extension table, but also because of the size of the workspace. Did you know that there's almost a full 10" from the needle to the right-hand side of the workspace? That's huge whether you're quilting or just sewing. I often set the smaller pieces of my project in that workspace so they are handy.

Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 50 with the extension table

There's another reason why there's so much space on the Designer Topaz 50. Yes, it's an embroidery machine as well. I'm not going to have time to delve into the embroidery, although I want to, but I'm saving that for the next week of posts. There are built-in designs, on-screen editing and a whole lot more features that I can't wait to check out.

Embroidery unit for the Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 50 is in the box

There's a large interactive touch screen that provides easy access to all that the Designer Topaz 50 has to offer. It's bright, it's clear, it's very handy and should you need to touch some tight corners on the screen, a stylus is very handily located on the side of the sewing machine (not shown in the picture).

The items to the right and the bottom of the logo screen below remain constant, you'll always have access to those items and I'll be explaining a few of them this week. There's a lot more interchangeable information behind that start-up screen and we'll have a look at a few of those as well.

Designer Topaz 50 welcome screen

One of the first things you should do, well at least on the first day, is to download the User's Guide. Yes, there's a User's Guide in the box, but I can safely say that I'm past reading the User's Guide on paper. I'm not sure how that happened because I can't read a novel on the tablet, but a User's Guide, that's a different thing.

I like having the electronic format of the User's Guide. I can easily look up the information that I want, I don't have to have the book in my hands in the event that I'm somewhere else - it's fast and easy. If you don't have a tablet, then you can use the paper version. However here's the thing - I would highly recommend that you read the User's Guide.

I've heard people say they don't need a fancy sewing machine with all kinds of features and I get that. But if you have a sewing machine and you don't know what features it has or how to use them, it's certain you won't feel encouraged to use them.

I'm very surprised at what I've learned by reading the sewing machine manuals over the last couple of years. Lots of little tips and tricks and a couple of new ways of doing things, as well as really understanding the features and functions of the sewing machine.

The nice thing is that it doesn't take long to read through the User's Guide and better to do it in front of the sewing machine, at least for parts. That way, you can follow along, push buttons, touch the screen or whatever else needs to be done to understand.

I've been sewing for many years (no need to say how many) and I've sewn on the Husqvarna brand of sewing machines for a long, long time. Despite that background, I have to say that I've learned a lot by reading the User"s Guides.

User's Guide for the Designer Topaz 50 on a tablet

But let's say that you don't have the User's Guide or even that you do, there's a button on the screen that you've no idea what it does. You can't even look it up because you don't know what it's called. Here's where Quick Help comes into play. See that "?" on the top right-hand corner of the Interactive Touch Screen? Touch the "?" and then touch the button that you're puzzled about. Voila! You'll get a short clarification of the function. If you need to pursue more information, you now know what to look for in the User's Guide.

This feature is brilliant. There are times when I can't remember what a function does or I stumble across something new. I use the "?" (Quick Help) to figure out what the functions are.

Quick Help definition of the Free-Motion Technique function

Quick Help definition of the stitch A:1

This is the Function Panel which is located right over the needle. All the main sewing operations are controlled from this Function Panel. Raising and lower the Presser Foot (there's NO manual lever on the Designer Topaz 50, which I LOVE), controlling the speed, activating the sewing in reverse function, cutting the threads, needle up and down and a few more.

What I love about this Function Panel is how conveniently located it is. There are many times when I'm holding a very intricate section of work. I don't have an extra hand to lower the presser foot or to put the needle down. I can simply lift up a finger and touch the correct function. It's so handy, I would be totally lost without having such easy access to the Function Panel.

The lights will let me know which Functions are activated. In the photo below, the FIX (anchors the start and end of a row of stitching) and the Needle Up/Down Pivot is NOT engaged (notice there are two lights for that one - either up or down).

Function Panel on the Designer Topaz 50

There's one other feature that I love about the Designer Topaz 50. There's an Exclusive Sewing Advisor at the bottom of the Interactive Touch Screen. This allows me to choose the type and weight of materials that I'm sewing and it also allows me to choose the technique that I'm going to sew.

Now I know that you're thinking - I'm a quilter. I sew with cotton and always sew a seam. Well, I'm a quilter as well, but I seem to be working with more weird fibers and fabric weights these days so having these features is great. The benefit is that I can select the appropriate settings and let the Designer Topaz 50 suggest the tension, stitch and stitch length for me.

All of the selections can be overridden in the event that the automatic settings aren't working. But I've only had to override the settings in a few rare instances. I love that feature and it does take a lot of guesswork out of the sewing equation. It also saves time!

And as a quilter or a bag maker, you want to be switching into the settings for heavy versus woven. 

Exclusive Sewing Advisor selection panel

Aren't those features exciting?  There's nothing like sitting down to sew and know that your sewing machine is going to perform exactly how you want it to. With all the deadlines in my schedule, there's zero time to mess around with tension issues or trying to figure out how to do something. Between the Quick Help, the User's Guide, and spending some time playing with the Designer Topaz 50, I know exactly what it can do and I'm not afraid to make it do that!

Come back tomorrow where I'll be showing you a few of the features inside the menus of the Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 50.

Have a great day!

Ciao!

4 questions to ask yourself when choosing batting for your quilt project

This week I've been taking a close look at 5 batting samples I received from Fairfield. I did some testing of the effects of washing before quilting and after. I quilted samples using each of the different battings to see how they stitched out.

I've looked at the 3 polyester battings; Project Fleece, Poly-Fil Low-Loft and Poly-Fil Extra-Loft.

3 batting samples from Fairfield

I also reviewed 2 cotton battings I was sent; Quilter's 80/20 and Soft & Toasty. 

Soft & Toasty and Quilter's 80/20 battings from Fairfield

Why use one batting over another?

Batting choices are personal. Often we stick with something that we're already familiar with. I usually have the same 2 battings in my studio available for customers to choose for their quilting projects. I've stuck with a cotton/poly blend and a cotton. Pretty boring I know.

I know the cotton batting will give a flat, minimal texture finish to the quilt and the cotton/poly will have a bit of texture once the quilt is quilted. Remember these quilts will have a much different look once they are washed!

After conducting my pre-and post quilting washing experiments, I think I'm going to be expanding my selection of battings for myself and my customers and start using some polyester batting.

 

So, why would I choose a poly batting?

I would choose a polyester batting for projects where I want to have texture and when I know that repeated washes won't affect the texture of the quilt. The Poly-Fil low-loft batting would be a great go-to choice.

I think I'll certainly keep some of the extra-loft on hand for the special quilting projects when I want to see all that great texture from quilting. I have a whole cloth wall hanging to quilt at some point this year. The texture I get from quilting this batting will be fantastic and I know that as this quilt travels with me to show it will not get any distracting creases.

Below are two samples of densely quilted quilts. The yellow sample uses a single layer of Fairfield's Extra-Loft batting. The blue sample uses a single layer of wool batting. Both have been washed to remove the markings I made during the quilting. Notice the blue sample is a slightly bit puckered. Not that I don't like it, but some of the quilting gets lost. Unlike the yellow sample using the polyester batting, the texture is all batting and thread!

I can see more extra-loft batting in my quilts in the future!

Extra-loft batting vs. wool batting

I would choose the low-loft batting for baby or kid quilts that I know will be getting a lot of wear. Polyester battings cost less than natural fibers like cotton. So, for my giving quilts (charity) I'll probably choose to use this batting.  

Here's a picture of an older quilt [25 or more years]. It has been well used and washed a lot. In some areas the fabric has disintegrated, but the polyester batting is still going strong!

Fabric disintegrated, poly batting lasts

Package over Roll?

Most stores that you visit to purchase batting will have packages available. The packages are conveniently cut into a variety of sizes for easy sale and use. Sizes are available from baby or crib size [36" x 45"] to king size [110" x 110"]. I would recommend that you open the packages well before use, especially the cotton ones. If you choose not to pre-wash, lay the batting flat and give it a mist of water from a spray bottle. The batting will relax from it's tight roll and will be much easier to quilt.

Some of the battings are also available in rolls or bolts for those of us who use a lot of batting! Personally, I prefer the rolls of batting when I can get them for my own use. I can then cut exactly the amount I want off the roll and not have any batting waste. But then again, I'm always looking for scraps of batting for smaller projects.

My advice would be to start by purchasing a package of batting to see how you like it and then you can invest in a roll. You'll need to talk to your local store to get them to order a roll for you. It may not be something they carry as part of their regular stock.

 

What's the bottom line?

As I've already said, batting choices are personal decisions. Ask yourself the following questions to help you decide on which batting to choose for your next project.

1. What is the purpose of this quilt? Will it be a baby blankie, a wall hanging or an art quilt?
2. Are there any allergy or material preferences? A polyester batting won't work for someone who prefers all natural fibers.
3. What batting is available to me? Can I wait until I can order from my local retailer or does that quilt have to be done right away for gifting?
4. What effect do I want for the finished project? Do I want the finished quilt to be smooth or textured like an antique quilt?

You can be assured that whatever batting you choose to use your quilt will turn out wonderfully. Just remember to give some thought to the desired finished project, and it will help you decide which batting will be most appropriate.

I enjoyed this batting study. I'm off to my local retailer to order some batting rolls!

Understanding batting loft and which to use for your quilted project

This week I've been taking a close and detailed look at 5 batting samples from Fairfield. I received packages of 3 polyester battings and 2 cotton battings.

5 batting samples from Fairfield

I pre-washed them and quilted them and then washed them again to see the finished results.

Today, I'm going to focus on loft. What it is and why quilter's think it is important.

Let's look at batting loft

Loft is the thickness of the batting and gives you an idea how fluffy or thick the quilt will be once it has been quilted.

The picture below shows the Project Fleece, Low Loft and Extra Loft battings, left to right.

3 samples of loft in batting

Some battings are considered low loft. They're quite thin and will not have much definition from the quilting stitches. These are perfect battings to use for wall hangings or table runners. These battings would be approximately ³⁄₁₆" thick. That's just over an ⅛" thick. The Project Fleece and the Low-Loft batting both give a loft up to ³⁄₁₆". The Project Fleece has been needlepunched and appears more compact or felted. 

Geese quilted with Project Fleece

Some battings are considered high loft which will show the stitching definition as well as be fluffier or thicker. High loft battings would be approximately ½" thick. Many quilters will use a higher loft polyester batting for whole cloth quilts where the quilting stitches are the main feature.

Extra-Loft batting from Fairfield

Loft is a personal thing for quilters and sewers. A low loft batting would be ideal for garment construction or projects that require stability without any extra thickness.

Soft & Toasty and Project Fleece are ideal for place mats and table runners and the wide variety of bags that we tend to make. Remember that the Soft & Toasty is a cotton fabric and when washed, will tend to shrink and make your project pucker. The puckering effect is a great look if that's what you're looking for.

Stitch samples and journal covers with a low loft batting

Low-Loft is a good choice for a quilted project that doesn’t require anything special. Baby quilts are a good example of quilts that can make use of low-loft batting.

Quilter's 80/20 batting is also a good choice of a low loft batting. Again, like Soft & Toasty it will shrink a bit when it is washed but you'll have less puckering and texture because of the polyester content.

Once this baby quilt is washed and dried it will become a soft and comfy blankie.

A little bit of texture from Quilter's 80/20 batting

Extra-Loft is perfect for when you want the quilt stitches to really show!

Dense quilting and Extra-Loft batting

Tomorrow I'll share with you why I like each batting and how I use each of these great battings from Fairfield.

The characteristics and benefits of polyester batting

This week I'm looking at some batting samples from Fairfield. I was sent 5 different batting samples and I'm looking at a variety of features and benefits of each batting.

Yesterday, I looked at 2 cotton batting samples from Fairfield. Today I'm focusing on the 3 polyester battings. Later in the week I'll be comparing all the battings and discussing them and their preferred use.

Packages of polyester batting from Fairfield

I'm pleased to report that I didn't have any issues with any of the polyester battings. As you can see below, the washed piece is pretty square to my 12" ruler. The other 2 polyester batting samples were the same.

Sample of a polyester batting that didn't shrink in the wash

Polyester battings are preferred when you know a quilt will be "used and abused". There's no worry about polyester battings shrinking in the wash and quilters can be assured of long lasting quilts despite many years of little [and big] kids dragging their blankie around with them.

Polyester battings will also drape nicely for great cuddles. It's also the preferred choice for preventing creases when quilts are folded. Some quilters will use a double layer of batting, a cotton on the bottom for weight and stability and the polyester on top for texture and to reduce creasing.

Poly-Fil Project Fleece batting

Fairfield Poly-Fil Project Fleece

Poly-Fit Project Fleece is a needlepunched batting. Needle punching is when thousands of little needles "felt" the fibers together. The advantage of needlepunching is that the fibers won't migrate or pull apart in the completed project. Look carefully, there's a definite right side and wrong side to a needlepunched batting.

Fairfield Poly-Fil Project-Fleece quilted sample

Project Fleece is ideal for projects that need a bit of stability. So craft projects and garments lend themselves ideally to the use of Project Fleece. Project Fleece is also great in table runners, place mats and other project that require very little texture.

The Fairfield website has this information about Project Fleece

Poly-Fil® Project Fleece™, a low loft, needlepunched batting is a multi purpose insulating craft material perfect for quilt batting, garment liners and crafts. It will give your quilt a flat appearance and its felt-like texture makes it the perfect craft batting.

• Multipurpose insulating craft material
• Perfect for quilt batting, garment liners and crafts
• Recommended quilting distance: 2” - 4”
• 100% recycled polyester needlepunched batting
• Proudly made in the USA, unconditionally guaranteed

Poly-Fil Low-Loft batting

Fairfield Poly-Fil Low-Loft batting

Poly-Fil Low-Loft batting is a very light, low loft batting. It's 100% bonded polyester batting which means that fibers with different melting points are passed through a warmer and some of the fibers melt and fuse the rest together. The low loft batting is easy to hand stitch and is perfect for lightweight projects and baby quilts.

The Fairfield website has this information

Poly-Fil Low-Loft® quilt batting sets the standard for all other 100% bonded polyester battings. It is a favorite among machine and hand quilters. It will retain its loft wash after wash and dries quickly, making it ideal for lightweight quilts and baby quilts. Hand quilters love that it is the easiest batting to needle through and accentuates tiny hand stitches. Weight: 2 oz / sq yd

• Low loft
• 2 oz per square yard
• Quilting distance: 2" - 4"
• Felt-like texture

Fairfield Poly-Fil Low-Loft batting quilting sample

The quilted sample remains soft and flexible.

Poly-Fil Extra-Loft batting

Fairfield Poly-Fil Extra-Loft batting

Poly-Fil Extra-Loft is a bonded batting that's quite thick with a loft of up to ½" thick. It's the perfect batting to use when you really want to see texture.

The batting is easy to stitch through, although I recommend caution when stitching through this thicker batting. You may find that the fabrics will slide as the foot moves across the surface. 

The Fairfield website has this information

Poly-Fil Extra-Loft® batting is a bonded polyester quilt batting with a  medium loft that creates a more pronounced relief when hand quilting, making it perfect for beginners. It has an even give in both directions and is appropriate for hand or machine quilting, Trapunto and tied quilts. Great for all quilting and crafting projects. Weight: 3.5 oz / sq yd

• Breathable – ideal for bed & baby quilts
• Easy to needle by hand or machine
• Recommended quilting distance: 2” - 4”
• Washable and non-allergenic
• Proudly made in the USA, unconditionally guaranteed

Fairfield Poly-Fil Extra-Loft quilted

Join me tomorrow as I'll look at loft and when to use it in your project.

The benefits of cotton batting, how to pre-wash it and how to quilt it

This week I'm looking at some batting samples from Fairfield. I was sent 5 different batting samples and am looking at a variety of features and benefits of each batting. Yesterday, I briefly described each batting sample. Tomorrow I'll focus on the polyester battings and later in the week I'll compare and discuss the best projects to use these battings.

Today I'm focusing on the 2 cotton battings: Soft & Toasty and Quilter's 80/20.

Quilter's 80/20 and Soft & Toasty battings from Fairfield

I wanted to do some simple testing of the battings. I cut 14" squares of each batting and then drew a 12" square with a permanent marker.   

12" square marked on a 14" piece of batting

I soaked the batting pieces in a tub of warm water for an hour. I then squeezed out the excess water and placed them in the dryer with a large bath towel. I allowed the dryer to run until the battings were still damp. I then spread them flat on the bath towel to finish drying.

Pre-wash batting in warm tap water to pre-shrink

I remember my 2 very first quilts. When I bought the batting for these large twin quilts for my daughters, I was told that I had to pre-shrink my batting. The directions were to fill my bathtub with warm water and immerse the batting. Let it sit for a while and then squeeze out the excess water. I thought I'd save some time by "washing" the entire 5 meter length at once. Well, I felt like Lucille Ball and her infamous grape stomping episode! I spent a good half hour stomping on the batting in my bathtub and then trying to pull that wet length of batting out of my tub and finding a place to dry it! Things are much easier now.

I recommend the following procedure to pre-wash cotton battings. Fill the washing machine with water. Unfold and submerge the batting in the water and turn the machine off!

DON'T AGITATE!

Allow the batting to soak for a while and then spin the moisture out. The batting can then be tossed in the dryer with a large towel to get most of the moisture out. Lay the batting on a flat surface to finish drying. If you agitate the batting, you'll end up with a tub full of fluff!

The benefits of cotton battings

Cotton battings have a few clear benefits. They're made mostly with natural fibers. Cotton battings 'breath' and therefore can be warm in winter and cool in the summer. They drape well and are ideal for bed quilts. Cotton battings tend to be heavier than polyester battings and for those of us who like the weight of our quilts, cotton battings are ideal.

Personally, I like cotton battings for their natural materials. I have a few allergies and cotton batting assures me that I won't have any sleepless nights.

Soft & Toasty is a natural cotton quilt batting

Soft & Toasty natural cotton batting from Fairfield

Soft & Toasty is a low loft natural cotton batting. The package states that the batting won't beard, shift or gather and can be stitched up to 8" apart.

What in the world is scrim?

The batting has been needlepunched onto a very fine scrim. Scrim is a very thin stabilizer that the batting material has been needlepunched to. When looking at both sides of the batting, the scrim side will appear firmer and flatter. The non-scrim side appears and feels softer and loftier. The scrim also helps the batting from becoming distorted.  

The Fairfield website has the following information about Soft & Toasty.

Soft & Toasty™ batting is the perfect 100% natural cotton quilt batting for all of your quilts and crafts. You will get the same strength and warmth you expect from similar battings at a very affordable price. You can use it to create everyday quilts and crafts or award winning masterpieces with confidence.

• Low loft
• 3 oz per square yard
• Quilting distance: 8"
• Ideal batting for clothing

If you choose not to pre-wash your batting, the quilt will take on an antique look once it has been washed.

Soft & Toasty batting quilted and washed

Quilter's 80/20 batting is 80% cotton and 20% polyester

Quilter's 80/20 batting from Fairfield

Batting that is made up of more than one fiber has the added benefit of giving the quilter the best of both worlds. Cotton is a natural fiber and breathes more than polyester, but it does show creases from the folds of the quilt. Cotton/poly batting blends give the breath-ability and weight of cotton and the polyester fibers help to keep the creases to a minimum.  

The Fairfield website gives the following information.

Quilter's 80/20™ is a super-soft needle punched quilt batting that is preferred by hand quilters for its easy needling and smooth drape. The 80% cotton and 20% polyester blend yields a beautiful antique look and is an ideal batting for clothing. Weight: 3 oz / square yard

• Low loft
• 3 oz per square yard
• Quilting distance: 2" - 4"
• Ideal batting for clothing

The following image shows the quilt washed after being quilted. There's some shrinkage from washing the batting which gives some nice texture to the quilt.

Quilter's 80/20 batting quilted and washed

Both of the batting samples shrunk once they were quilted and washed. There's a little less texture on the Quilter's 80/20 sample, but both battings quilted beautifully and I'll certainly be adding these battings to my quilting toolbox.

The advantage of the polyester in the Quilter's 80/20 is added thickness or loft. I'll go into more detail later this week.

Join me tomorrow, I'll look at the 3 polyester batting samples I received from Fairfield.

Comparing 5 Fairfield quilt batting samples. Which one is for you?

I've always wanted to collect a selection of batting samples and do some testing on them. This week I'm going to focus on 5 battings from Fairfield.

5 battings from Fairfield

I received 5 batting samples: 3 polyester battings, a cotton/polyester blend batting and a cotton batting. I spent some time stitching and washing and want to share my results with you.

I began by cutting 14" squares of each of the batting samples and drawing 12" squares on each sample. Then I conducted some very scientific experiments! Each day this week I'm going to highlight and compare the 5 battings under a variety of considerations.

A batting sample cut and measured at 12"

Here are some questions I want to answer this week.

1. What materials are used in batting and how does that affect the project?
2. How does the thickness or the loft of the batting affect the quilting process and the finished quilt?
3. How does pre-washing and washing after quilting affect the finished quilt?
4. I'll also look at the 5 battings and how the amount of quilting affects the finished look of the quilt.

Let's take a brief look at each of the batting samples that I received.

Poly-Fil Extra-Loft is a 100% polyester batting and can be quilted up to 4" apart. The information on these packages is very helpful for choosing the right batting for each project.

 

Poly-Fil Extra-Loft batting from Fairfield

Poly-Fil Low-Loft is also a 100% polyester batting. The package doesn't say what the stitching distance is but the website recommends a stitching distance of 2" - 4" apart.

Poly-Fil Low-Loft batting from Fairfield

Poly-Fil Project Fleece is another 100% polyester batting that can be sewn up to 4" apart. This batting is recommended for a variety of quilting and craft projects.

Poly-Fil Project Fleece from Fairfield

The Fairfield family of cottons, Quilter's 80/20 batting is 80% cotton and 20% polyester. Recommended quilting distance is 2" - 4". It has been needle punched to keep the layers firmly together. 

Quilter's 80/20 batting from Fairfield

And the last batting I tested is the Soft & Toasty. This batting is 100% cotton and can be quilted up to 8" apart. It also is needle punched with a light scrim to give it stability.

Soft & Toasty batting from Fairfield

Tomorrow, I'll focus on the cotton battings and follow up the next days with the polyester battings and why we like the battings we do and give some hints on when to use each one.

Using a little Dazzle and a little Splendor to finish the Studio Bird quilt

My Studio Bird mini quilt is almost ready to grace a wall in my newly-organized sewing space.

Yesterday, we used 3 hand embroidery styles to add embellishments using WonderFil's Dazzle thread. Today, we're going to complete the quilt by binding it and labeling it. But first, we have to press and trim our work.

I elected to use a lot of steam over the quilt. To make sure you don't flatten all those lovely hand stitches, made more beautiful with WonderFil Specialty Threads, place a fluffy towel on the ironing board, then place the quilt right side down on the towel. Set the iron to the wool setting, and lightly press the work.

Trim the quilt.

Trim the quilt before binding it.

Stitch a label using free motion machine embroidery techniques.

Remove the paper backing from the fusbile adhesive, which acts as a stablizer for machine stitching.

I made a label by ironing a scrap of fusible adhesive to a pretty scrap of fabric, adding a little heart. I used WonderFil's Splendor thread to outline the heart with some decorative stitches. I then switched the machine set up to free motion stitching, and traced over the penciled-in details of the quilt in contrasting thread. If you keep the paper backing on the fusible adhesive, it can also act as a stabilizer.

I removed the backing and ironed on the label.

WonderFil Specialty Threads - spools of Splendor thread

Apply the binding to the front of the quilt. Use the machine's walking foot to make this part go smoothly.

I had enough leftover binding from another project for this quilt. This is my favorite binding method, expertly explained by QUILTsocial's own Elaine Theriault. Follow it, and you'll have no trouble at all binding this little mini quilt.

I like to slip stitch the binding to the back of the quilt by hand. I used Efina for this stitching. It was amazing to see the stitches literally disappear with no effort on my part.

Once the binding is stitched, front and back, press it well.

I found a little hanger in the scrap booking section of my favorite craft store. It comes with a label tag. Very cool, and quite affordable!

I hope that you had as much fun as I had playing with leftovers and making them really special with WonderFil's beautiful spectrum of threads. Complete a quilt with proper binding and a fun label, and you will always be pleased with the results.

Keep visiting QUILTsocial for all kinds of quilty fun.

 

The Studio Bird mini quilt is all done!

Love that label!

3 hand embroidery stitches add dazzle and charm to a mini quilt

Yesterday, we got cracking with appliqueing the flower pot and the English Paper Pieced (EPP) flowers onto the Studio Bird mini quilt.

Today, let’s decide where the little wool felt bird will go, and use different hand embroidery styles to add embellishments using WonderFil's Dazzle thread. 

WonderFil Specialty Threads - Dazzle

Pin the bird elements in place so they fit into the overall design.

Once you’ve decided where the bird will perch, pin it to the substrate (you may have to move pieces out of the way as you work on the various components). Use that lovely Ellana blend of 50% Merino wool and 50% acrylic, to applique the bird using a traditional blanket stitch. To keep the stitches evenly spaced apart, place a little pen mark on the side of your thumb, about a ¼'' from the bottom of your thumb nail as in the photo below. This helps space the stitches evenly.

A couple of pen marks on your thumb helps space your blanket stitches apart.

With the little bird in place, draw a line from the bird's beak downward, about 2½''. Use a length of Dazzle thread to embroider this line using a chain stitch.

Draw a line from the beak downward. Chain stitch along this line.

Create a delicate and shimmering chain for the wool felt heart with Dazzle thread.

Applique a small wool felt heart to the end of the line, using Ellana wool thread, making sure the heart applique covers the end of the Dazzle thread. To make the heart stand out on this quilt, I used a running stitch and some colonial or French knots on the felt, and then outlined the heart shape with Dazzle thread. WonderFil's website offers a guide to several stitches in a downloadable PDF.

Tie a small bow using the Dazzle thread. Cover the knot with some white craft glue and allow it to dry. The glue will dry clear.

Tack the bow to the top of the heart using the Efina thread. Use a tiny amount of fray stopping solution to keep the ends from fraying over time.

Attach the Dazzle bow to the felt heart.

Dazzle adds some magpie sparkle on the bird's wing

Dazzle creates some pretty details in the flower center

A long stitch topped with a colonial knot also known as the pistil stitch

Applique ric rac to the flower pot, and embellish it with Dazzle thread.

Use WonderFil's Efina thread to add a little bead eye to the bird. The thread disappears and the bead looks magically attached.

This is all looking pretty cute, right?

The magpie in me is totally in love with the Dazzle thread. It’s a sturdy 6-ply thread which is very much like perle cotton. It’s a 100% rayon and metallic blend. It’s got a bright, reflective way about it, and the little pop of metallic makes all of us magpies sit up and take notice. It's great for hand embroidery, and like all things shiny, a little goes a long way. I’m doing my best to reign in my love of all things sparkly.

This won't prevent me from adding some Dazzle details onto the bird and the flower. You can do as you please to embellish this quilt. Iron-on crystals, beads, heck, even a few real feathers would be fun.

As for me, the flower is getting some lovely Dazzle details, as is our feathered friend and the flower pot, which I think we can all agree, is just about right.

Come back tomorrow, when we trim our little quilt, make a label, bind it, and hang it on the wall.